Arizona Trail 5/23 - 5/28
What follows is long winded so pictures can be found
here.
You can see Yuri's account and pictures
here.
Yuri wanted to complete the final section of the AZ Trail and I was again happy to ride along. This was my third segment (still need to do Mexico to Tucson) and a good one it was.
The forecasts had us seeing rain throughout our travel time and locations but seeing as we had most of the necessary gear and more importantly the vacation window, it was a moot point.
Saturday had us waking up around 5am at
Gnome's after a good time at the Pay-n-Take the night before. A brief stop for fuel and food and we were AZ/UT border bound. The drive up was mostly rainy and cloudy but once we hit Vermillion Cliffs Road, most of the rain had stopped although there was still heavy cloud cover.
Our ride proceeded with some soft and loamy singletrack which made the going fairly slow. Factor in the amount of climbing and it was a long day on the bike with the intermittent rain and hailstorms. It rained, it hailed and stormed pretty heavily our first night near Jacob Lake but we survived the day/night and woke the next morning to some wet gear but eager to be on our way to the North Rim.
The trail again mostly had us ascending but the trail was in fine shape until we hit the trail closure at FR205 to Crane Lake. We took the road at this point as there was no real desire to get a ticket even if the chance of that was relatively low. The climbing on the road was bearable up to the point of being passed by large groups of Harley riders out for a Memorial Day jaunt. It's arguable that we did the right thing as we were hit by a fast-moving thunderstorm that produced a harsh crosswind and rain. We had arranged to meet our support driver Melissa just south of the DeMotte Campground and after making some coffee she showed shortly thereafter with our Backcountry Permit for the Grand Canyon. (note- I had forgot the one I obtained a few months prior; it was for the wrong days anyway)
The evening was interrupted by a guy running up asking us to call the Forest Service. Apparently our cell phones get a much better signal that his out in that area (WTF?). He literally added fuel to his already burning fire by pouring gasoline out of a jerry can. We helped him contain it a bit and dumped some water to quench the flames. Cooler heads prevailed and Yuri refrained from hitting the "911" button on the SPOT.
Again, we were up early and eager to start our hike from the North Rim down to Phantom Ranch where we would later meet Melissa and Randy who both would be coming down from the South Kaibab Trail. The hike down was something to behold. The Canyon is a contradiction when deep inside; you can sense the vastness as your mind knows its immensity and yet you see very little of it while on the trail. Reaching Phantom Ranch had us opting for a couple cans of Tecate while picking our camp for the night. The soak in Bright Angel Creek was a very welcome treat to us both. Melissa showed up with a few more beers in her pack which were promptly consumed. We followed up the evening meet and greet with a ranger giving a talk about a book "Death in the Grand Canyon." After a bit of death, we headed off to the canteen for a couple more beers as hiking is thirsty work.
It was around 5am when I awoke with the sky lighting up with Randy, Melissa and Yuri stirring about. Randy rode from Flagstaff and then hiked down the previous evening. Hardcore. We readied for our hike out up the Bright Angel Trail. It is longer but not as steep as the South Kaibab. It too was a great hike as the views were amazing and the trail decent except for the mule crap. I made it up to the last remaining 2 miles or so when I started to get light-headed. Yuri continued on I finished the last of my water. I completely underestimated how much I had and what I would need as the temperature rose as did the elevation. My mistake had me stopping every 1/4 mile or so and taking a small sip while I rested in the shade. It wasn't long before I was out of water and trudging my way slowly up the trail as I saw fresh faces of families out for a day stroll, often in flip flops and a small 8oz bottle of water between the five of them. Up and out I finally went to see Yuri taking a photo of one very thirsty and somewhat pissed-off me. Hydration was the first thing on my mind followed by a snack. Both were accomplished post-haste. We later met with Randy and Melissa for a beer at the Bright Angel Lodge. We continued on to a food resupply and were summarily left just south of Grandview Lookout on the South Rim from where we would begin the next day.
The singletrack from Grandview was something I did not expect. Except for the trail grenades (pinecones) and some fallen trees, the 'track was swoopy and skinny. It was our longest day in the saddle, pushing to within 25 miles or so of Flagstaff. We descended into the valley where Babbit Ranch sits, filtering water along the way at various stops. Nothing like using cattle troughs for quenching one's thirst. The drop to Babbitt Ranch was fairly fast if a bit windy. It was at this point that we crossed paths with a large number of other riders. Turns out they were Boy Scouts. Not sure if they were trying to earn a badge or what but it's a good thing they had a couple of SAG vehicles following. The climb out of Babbitt Ranch started out OK but ended up becoming something of a slog with the mud and rain. Some walking and bike cleaning was a necessity. We were still OK on water and decided to camp out near the next source which we did. It was a great view of the north face of the San Francisco Peaks and for the second time during our ride, a clear sky even if the temperature was a bit on the cold side.
Our final day on the trail started out much slower than the previous ones. Yuri and I both waited for sun up before emerging from our bags for coffee and food. My bag was a bit wet on top from condensation. Bags and clothes out to dry I went back to the tank to filter more water, which wasn't really needed but was welcome anyway. On our bikes it was a steep climb up and over the shoulder of the Peaks. We apparently missed a turn on our downhill bomb towards Flagstaff. A brief stint on the road and we headed back north to connect with the Ft. Valley trail system. We finished up the trail proper by popping out at the Schultz Creek Trailhead and then into Flagstaff for a pizza and a pint at Beaver Street Brewery.
Thanks to Yuri, Dave, Melissa, Randy,
Pay-n-Take and most especially to my wife Julie for tolerating my absence.